京剧文化之旅 |“宁戴破、不戴错”大有讲究的京剧头饰
“宁戴破、不戴错”大有讲究的京剧头饰
It is better to wear a broken one than a wrong one- there's a lot to be said forBeijing Opera headgear.
近些日子，天气晴好，温度越来越适宜，大家也开始纷纷挑选起了靓丽的春装。在时尚造型中，头饰是关键的一环，与服饰协调一致又要不失亮眼之处。而在京剧中，头饰也占据了重要的地位，行话说：“宁戴破、不戴错”，它即作为演员表演、舞蹈的手段，也是表现人物造型的重要组成部分。
The weather has been beautiful in recent days and the temperature is getting better, so everyone is starting to pick up their spring outfits. In fashion, the headdress is key, as it should match the costume without losing its own sparkle. In Beijing opera, headdress also plays an important role, as the saying goes: "It is better to wear a broken one than a wrong one". It serves as a means for the actors to perform and dance, as well as an important part of the expression ofoperaroles.
京剧行头之盔头
One of the Beijing Opera costumes—Kui tou(decorated hat or helmet in Chinese opera to characterize roles)
无论是京剧还是昆曲中的生、旦、净、末、丑，表演时都离不开盔头。它既代表了不同角色的身份，又是戏剧表演的重要行头之一。它们与戏衣一样注重装饰，但其装饰的繁简，时有变化，各剧种之间也互有异同。据有经验的盔头艺人讲，传统的盔头，包括各种大小附件，约有 300 种。
In both Beijing Opera and Kunqu Opera, there are several roles:Sheng (male role),Dan(female role),Jing (painted face),Mo (middle-aged male role) andChou (clown),none of which can be performed without Kui tou. It represents the identity of the different characters and is one of the most important pieces of clothing for theatrical performances. Both Kui tou and costumes pay attention to decoration, but the decoration of Kui tou is simple and changeable, and there are similarities and differences between the various dramas. According to experienced Kui tou artists, there are about 300 traditional Chinese Opera hats, including accessories that come in different sizes.
按照舞台上不同角色的实际应用来划分，盔头可分为冠、盔、帽、巾四大类。因这一特点，能够让观众一眼就辨别舞台上人物的身份特征。
According to the practical application of different roles on stage,Kui tou can be divided into four categories: Crown, Helmet, Hat and Scarf. Because of this feature, it enables the audience to identify the different characters on stage at a glance.
冠：为帝王、娘娘、贵妃在正式场合佩戴，如平顶冠、紫金冠、凤冠、如意冠等。
Crown: worn by emperors,and consorts of emperors on formal occasions, such as flat-topped crown, purple gold crown, phoenix crown, and Ruyi crown.
《霸王别姬》虞姬
Farewell My Concubine Yu Ji—Concubine
盔：文官武将所佩戴的军盔，一般为正式场合或行军、战场上佩戴，如扎金盔、帅盔、夜奔
盔（林冲专用）、木兰盔（木兰专用），旦角的老旦盔、七星额子、赛盔（昭君专用）。
Helmet: civil officials and military generals wear military helmets, generally for formal occasions, or during marching or on the battlefield.These helmets include Zakin helmet,the helmet of the general, Ye Ben Helmet (used exclusively by Lin Chong), Mulan helmet (used exclusively by Mulan), Dan character's helmet (helmets for older female roles), Qi Xing E Zi Helmet with two large layers of pompoms), Sai helmet (used exclusively by Zhaojun).
《大英杰烈》陈秀
Da Ying Jie Lie -Chen Xiu
帽：用途最广，君臣百姓正式场合的礼帽与日常生活中的便帽统称为帽。如王帽、侯帽、纱帽。
Hat:The hat is the most widely used Kui tou, be it a top hat on formal occasions or a cap worn in daily life by monarchs and commoners alike, including King's hat, Marquis hat,and Gauze hat.
《大保国·探皇陵·二进宫》徐延昭
Dragon and Phoenix Pavilion -Xu Yanzhao
巾：臣子、百姓所戴礼帽及便帽，其形制与帽不同，多为软胎，有的在帽后缀有飘带。如小生巾、员外巾。
Scarf:ceremonial hats and caps worn by courtiers and commoners. It is different from the hat in that it generally features a soft base, and some embellished with a streamer behind, for example, Xiao Sheng Scarf (the scarf worn by the scholar’s role),and Officer Scarf (the scarf worn by the bureaucrats in the play).
《白蛇传》许仙
The Legend of White Snake—Xu Xian
京剧旦角行头之头面
One of the Beijing Opera Dan character’s costumes—Tou Mian(Head ornaments)
头面是旦角头上各种化妆饰物的总称，说白了就是旦角演员头上戴的妆和首饰。旦角处理好头饰，可以创造出优美动人的舞台形象。
Tou Mian is the general term for the various head ornaments of a Dan character, which means the make-up and jewellery worn on the head of a Danrole. A Dan actor who handles headgear well can create an attractive stageimage.
头面分软、硬两种，软头面分为线帘、网子、发垫、发簪、大发、水纱等六种，硬头面分为点犀头面、水钻头面、银锭头面三种。
There are two types of Tou Mian: soft and hard. Soft Tou Mian can be divided into six types: line curtains, nets, hair pads, hair pins, big hair and water veils, while hard Tou Mian is divided into three types:Dian Cui headdress (made from kingfisher feathers, rhinestones and sterling silver), rhinestone heads and silver ingot heads.
点犀头面：用翠鸟的羽毛剪成一小块一小块后，在金属底板上制成，是头面中最高级的一种。不过现在为了保护翠鸟而采用颜色相近的绸子为材料代替制作。戴点翠的女性其所饰演的人身份地位比较高，至少她的父亲或丈夫是朝廷高官；宫中的后妃在不戴冠的时候也戴点翠头面。
Dian Cui headdress: This is the most advanced type of headdress, made by cutting the feathers of the kingfisher into small pieces and placing them on a metal base. It is now made from silk of a similar colour to protect the kingfisher.A woman wearing a cui-zuiis of a high status, at least with her father or husbandbeing a high court official; imperial concubines alsowear cui-zui headdresses whennot wearing a crown.
《碧玉簪》张玉贞
Jade Hairpin—Zhang Yuzhen
水钻头面：用高级玻璃仿制钻石， 称为水钻， 戏曲旦角用水钻头面，取其晶莹闪烁之华美，以此来衬托角色的年轻漂亮，并象征性格的开朗活泼。
Rhinestone headdress: A high-grade glass imitation of a diamond, known as a rhinestone, is used for the Dan character, as a glittering headdress is a perfect match for the young and beautiful Dan role, also symbolizing her cheerful and lively personality.
《凤还巢》程雪娥
The Phoenix Returns To Its Nest—Cheng Xue’e
银锭头面：铜制镀银色，泡呈半圆形球体状。又名“银泡头面”。银锭头面因简洁素雅，多用于青衣行当所饰的贫女，表示生活贫苦。
Silver Ingot headdress: Silver-plated copper, with a semi-circular spherical bubble, also known as 'silver bubble head masks'. Because of its simplicity and elegance, it is often used for poor girls played by decent characters to indicate their distress.
《六月雪》窦娥
The Injustice to Dou E—Dou E
