北京味道|得味在酸咸之外，一口难忘的老北京豆汁

北京味道|得味在酸咸之外，一口难忘的老北京豆汁

A Bite of Beijing | Unforgettable Taste of Beijing Douzhir 

豆汁儿是北京“独绝”的特殊风味小吃。至今，北京没有任何一种小吃能像豆汁儿一样，被融入到各种“段子”里，被赋予更多喜剧色彩，并形成老北京特色文化的一个例证。

Douzhir (fermented mung bean juice) is a snack unique to Beijing. No other snacks can be so commonly found in various jokes about Beijing like Douzhir, which bestows on this snack a comedian flavor and makes it an icon of traditional Beijing culture. 

豆汁是怎么来的？

Origins of Douzhir 

现代著名书画家马海方《卖豆汁图》 图片来源：北京市方志馆 如有侵权请联系删除

Selling Douzhir by famous modern calligrapher and painter Ma Haifang. The photo comes from Beijing Local Chronicles Museum. If its publication violates your copyright, please contact us and we’ll delete it as requested. 

豆汁历史悠久，据说早在辽、宋时就是民间大众化食品。据史料记载，260多年前清乾隆十八年夏天，民间粉房偶然用绿豆磨成的粉浆发酵变酸，尝起来酸甜可口，熬熟后味道更浓。乾隆帝曾下谕：“近日新兴豆汁一物，已派伊立布检查，是否清洁可饮，如无不洁之物，着蕴布招募豆汁匠二三名，派在御膳房当差。”由此，源于民间的豆汁加入了宫廷御膳的行列。

Douzhir has a long history. It is said that it was already popular among common people as early as the Liao (907-1125) and Song (960-1279) dynasties. Historical records reveal that in the summer of 1753, the 18th year of Emperor Qianlong’s reign in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), a bean vermicelli workshop occasionally found that the mung bean milk it produced became pleasantly sour after fermentation, which tasted better after cooked. Emperor Qianlong once decreed: “I heard something called Douzhir gained popularity recently, and thus sent someone to confirm whether it is clean and drinkable. If it contains nothing impure, I plan to recruit two or three Douzhir makers to work in the Imperial Kitchen.” From then on, the folk snack Douzhir entered the Imperial Kitchen. 

豆汁是怎么做的？

How to Make Douzhir 

熬制成的豆汁儿 图片来源：北京市方志馆 如有侵权请联系删除

Cooked Douzhir. The photo comes from Beijing Local Chronicles Museum. If its publication violates your copyright, please contact us and we’ll delete it as requested.

豆汁实际上是制作绿豆淀粉或粉丝的下脚料。它用绿豆浸泡到可捻去皮后捞出，加水磨成细浆，倒入大缸内发酵，沉入缸底者为淀粉，上层飘浮者即为豆汁、发酵后的豆汁须用大砂锅先加水烧开，兑进发酵的豆汁再烧开，再用小火保温，随吃随盛。豆汁一般味酸，略苦，有轻微的酸臭味。

In fact, Douzhir is made of residues from the making of mung bean starch and vermicelli. Mung beans are soaked and skinned, then grinded with water into thin juice, and fermented in a big vat. The substance sinking at the bottom of the vat is starch, and that on the upper is fermented Douzhir. The cook then boils water in a big earthenware pot, then pours fermented Douzhir into the pot. After the Douzhir is boiled, turn to low heat to keep warm, so one can drink anytime. Douzhir tastes sour and a little bitter and has slightly acidic odor. 

味虽怪但有营养

Sour but Nutritious 

豆汁 图片来源：北京非遗中心 如有侵权请联系删除

Douzhir. The photo comes from Beijing Intangible Cultural Heritage Center. If its publication violates your copyright, please contact us and we’ll delete it as requested.

色泽灰绿，口感浓醇，味酸且微甜，豆汁独特的味道，有很多人接受不来。虽然味道独特，但豆汁的营养价值是很高的，它极富蛋白质、维生素C、粗纤维和糖，并有祛暑、清热、温阳、健脾、开胃、去毒、除燥等功效。

Douzhir features grey-green color and sour, slightly sweet taste. Many diners cannot afford its unique flavor. Even so, it is highly nutritious, rich in protein, vitamin C, dietary fiber and sugar, and has the effect to dispel heat, enhance the yang, invigorate the spleen, whet the appetite, remove toxins, and drive out pathogenic dryness. 

豆汁的正确食用方式

The Right Way to Drink Douzhir 

豆汁、焦圈与咸菜丝 图片来源：国家人文历史 如有侵权请联系删除

Douzhir, fried onion rings, and shredded pickle. The photo comes from Beijing Intangible Cultural Heritage Center. If its publication violates your copyright, please contact us and we’ll delete it as requested.

北京人喝豆汁儿讲究成龙配套。喝豆汁儿时一般都有“配餐”，要配焦黄酥透的焦圈，或马蹄烧饼夹焦圈，一小碟切得细长的咸菜丝，加些辣椒油。豆汁一定要趁热喝，再咬上一口炸得金黄又香又脆的焦圈，就着又咸又辣的咸菜丝，甜中带酸，酸中有涩，别有风味。

Beijingers like to drink Douzhir alongside crispy fried onion rings, horse-hoof cakes, a tray of shredded pickle, and some chili oil. It’s better to drink Douzhir when it is hot, and go with a bite of golden, crispy fried onion rings and salty, spicy shredded pickle. Its sour, sweet and puckery taste is special.